Allen Dive

Journal · Travel Blog · Morocco

Morocco

23 July 2016

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After ten days in Morocco, I'd like to think I learned a bit about the country and the people therein. I originally chose Morocco as a starting point for two reasons. It reminded me of Indiana Jones, and it made sense logistically to start as far South as I wanted to go. Even if that meant going to Africa in the middle of July.

This is my first predominantly Islamic country. I was trying to keep my weird, 'Murican preconceptions at home, in order to experience Morocco with an open mind. My only major gripe is that fucking call to prayer at 3:30am and again at 4am. Most of the other calls are synced up. Not the one that fucking matters. Religion is a huge part of the daily life in Morocco, there are prayer rooms in train stations and malls. I always saw them located across the hall from bathrooms. Fuck, there was even one in Cafe Hafa, a hash cafe. They are utilitarian. A necessity. The mosques are stunning. They are always spotless and gleaming, even amid the rubble and graffiti.

Stork beer.

According to the locals and other travelers, Morocco is like Diet Islam. A place to dip your toe into the Muslim culture without having to worry too much about the societal rules as an outsider. The mixture of laid back and conservative has come up with some interesting compromises in order to coexist. In Tangier, you can buy beer and wine at restaurants, but I didn't see any liquor served. The women aren't required to wear the hijab, but most of them do anyway. Even at the beach. Hash is smoked publicly, yet remains illegal. They still haven't opened up to the idea of pork products.

Cafe culture is a thing. Mostly older men, hanging out in cafes like clubhouses. I don't think women are specifically banned from going into them. I just never saw any, apart from the odd tourist. Usually, there is some terrible soap opera playing in the background while they discuss the things that are ruining the country. The top contenders that I've heard: the younger generation, what with their rock music and pokemons. The USA, but mostly the CIA. Jew magic. Make sure you put some stank on that last one when you say it. They do.

The people I encountered were mostly nice. Even when they were trying to rip me off. To western sensibilities this seems like a flaw in their moral code. I think they believe it's OK to take money from stupid people. It's the individual's job to make sure you don't get fucked. Not some unwritten societal agreement. Just like queueing in line for something. It's nonexistent. You just push and shove to the front, and fuck you if you're not competitive enough. But, they'll smile while they do it. Same goes for prices. I'd visited the same shop several times and been charged a different price almost every time, even by the same guy. It usually only goes up or down by 1 dirham (~10 cents), after they've seen you a handful of times, it tends to go lower.

I had one guy tell me that Moroccans only live for today, and never plan for the future. I think that mentality usually comes from poverty in America. Maybe, they've had so little for so long, that it's part of the social fabric now. I have no idea. I might just be talking out of my ass. I'd totally visit Tangier again with a friend, just to watch them get confused as fuck.

Tangier gallery